Tuesday, 11 September 2012

Day 21-23 Udaipur-Mumbai-Kollam 30/08/2012-01/09/2012


I must say my first experience of long distance train journeys in India was not as bad as I had expected, my uncertainty was based around the fact I was only one class up from the general seating class which is grim. I got on the train at Udaipur and found my birth easily enough and settled in, chaining my bag up and climbing to my bed the top of three. I read for a short time before drifting into a slumber dogged with calls of “chai”,”samosa”,”coffee” and other such chants. I think my previous experience of long journeys put me in good stead for the journeys ahead as I knew exactly how to lye and read for 12 hours at a time. I woke early in the morning with the rest of the trains occupants and set to reading. I took a cup of chai for breakfast and a few hours later had some lunch courtesy of the endless stream of refreshment vendors. The train arrived into Mumbai at one of its northern terminus stations called Bandra after the first fifteen hours at around one o’Clock.
At this point I had two hours to cross the city to the station my next thirty six hours was departing from. This was easier said than done. I quickly found the near by local train station and got a ticket to the station I thought my train was departing from. The local train system is more confusing than the national one, mainly as the trains only list their final destination as well but there are less people who can tell you which train is which. Once on the right train I had my first encounter, with what I now know to be a transvestite beggar, but at the time I just thought them normal,albeit ugly, beggars who clapped loudly and expected money. Once I arrived at the first station my flip flop broke and I was left to waddle a hundred meters with one bare foot to a place I could stop and change my shoes. Once the switch was made I found a police officer to ask where I might find my train. He looked at me in a sympathetic way and told me I would find it across town at the train station I was meant to be at. By this point I was down to 45 minutes so I quickly found a taxi and asked if he knew the station I needed, It turned out he did, and after haggling him down to a reasonable price we set off to what I hoped was the right station. The driver, and his two mates in the back, were nice enough and we talked a bit on the way, “no I’m not married”, “yes I’m only 23” and “yes I’m monogamous” seems to get me through most taxi journeys. I got to the station and managed to find my train with minutes to spare.
This leg of my journey to Kollam was much the same as the trip to Mumbai but longer, two nights an afternoon and a morning. I was on the middle bunk this time however my seat was booked among a group of people and one of them was in a different birth and wanted to swap so he could sit with his friends so I obliged. The top bunk is preferable as you have the option of lying down or sitting as your bunk is always down but when the rest are up you also have a seat below. I spent the 36 hours either; sleeping, reading or eating with the odd doodling in my moleskin. The food on the long distance trains varies in quality however the price is always phenomenal and I didn’t once get a upset stomach from it. Once you have experienced a few trips on the sleeper trains they are the only way to travel around if you have the time, if you were among others it would be even better. Including the food and transfer in Mumbai it cost me the equivalent of under £15 and that’s three nights of accommodation and just under 2,500km, I would recommend it to anyone.
I arrived in Kollam at seven in the morning groggy and filthy. Once out of the station I had decided to go to the tourist office for the area to get some idea of what to do. I finally managed to get a rickshaw driver who knew the place which was only down the road and after getting there it only took a couple of minutes to book myself onto a backwaters tour that I had come for. I had twenty minutes to get some breakfast in before the tour started, which I just managed, and after only being in Kollam for two hours I was heading out on a tour of its backwaters. The tour would take place around one of the islands on the huge lake Kollam boarders, to get there was a 25km taxi ride. We were only in the taxi for five minutes before I witnessed two cars touch for the first time, a bus pulled out in front of our car and in doing so scraped the front left flank of the car. Our driver pursued the offending bus and eventually stopped it in the middle of the road to confront the driver who seemed to be having none of it. This chase continued a couple of blocks before we ended up and a police station of virtue and corruption where the matter seemed to be settled. We were soon on our way again into the countryside. The drive would have been pleasant if not for our drivers addiction to the sound of his own horn, I kid you no for 25km he would use his horn at least 3 blasts normally together every nine seconds. I counted. To get to the islands we got a small ferry over a 100m stretch of water which was built out of two boats lashed together but worked pretty well. Another short drive on the other side saw us to a small village where our guide was waiting with his hefty canoe. The five of us got into the canoe; a Spanish couple, an Estonian woman, an Indian couple and I. Our guide punted the canoe around the backwaters deftly, as he knew them like the back of his hand, and pointed things out along the way such as; fish farms, pepper plants, cashew trees, nutmeg trees, bananas, chillies, snakes, coconuts and a plethora of other little interesting things. The couple of hours we spent on the boat were a peaceful contrast to the trip that took us to them, we even stopped for tea in a little village where next door they were making rope out of coconut fibres. The trip back to Kollam was much the same as the trip out, I took the opportunity to ask the others on the tour if there was much else to do in Kollam. After finding out there wasn’t much else to do I decided to try and get another train back up the coast as I was planning to be back up in Goa in a couple of days.
My next stop was a city called Kochi which apparently is renowned for its fishing and has deep running Portuguese and Dutch influences of its older suburbs. The train I took there was grim, sleeper class turned into second class and for 3 hours I was a sardine, the only reprieves were when I managed to wrestle my way to hang out of the door of the train between stations. The relief of alighting the train was close to the feeling of relieving yourself after having needed for a wee for a similar amount of time. Before heading to the fort Cochin area over the water, which I had decided would be the ideal place to stay, I attempted to book my train out of Kochi to avoid a repeat journey of the one I had just been on. I was out of luck it seemed as all the trains out of Kochi towards Goa were booked for the days ahead, this was a problem to deal with another day so I took a rickshaw to the jetty. By the time I boarded the ferry to fort Cochin the sun was setting, over a far more industrial dockland than I had expected from my briefing by the lonely planet, though if there is a time to look at a dock you cant do much better than dusk. I arrived in fort Cochin after dark and began to wonder in the vague direction of the town centre, I hadn’t got far when a rickshaw driver offered to take me somewhere in my price range and tired as I was I took the easy way out....

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