Tuesday, 28 August 2012

Day 13-14 Manali – Shimla – Delhi 22-23/082012


It was raining when we set off down the hill towards the main bus station in the middle of town, luckily the sky was clearing and we hardly got wet on our early morning trudge. Once we found the station we needed to find the bus, before we got far an English guy called Alistair made himself known to us asking if we were heading to Shimla. Alistair was of the opinion that the bus we needed to get was not the bus we needed as the driver was 'lying' to him (he did not much trust the natives) in the end we got on the bus and waited to depart. The journey was long and confusing; after thirty minutes we stopped for about half an hour and eventually were told we had to switch buses which I did in a very groggy fashion as I had just managed to get to sleep. I think because the bookings were slim our service turned into a slow one and we stopped a lot along the way. We stopped for breakfast which for me essentially consisted of a potato naan and that was my food for the day until dinner, since arriving in India I’ve not been hungry during the day so I have been forgoing lunch. The change in scenery over the duration of our voyage was not as impressive as previous bus journeys though the vistas were just as stunning. The rest of the trip was a blur of amazing views, stops and 'A dance of dragons' and in no time we had arrived in Shimla.
The afternoon was waxing upon our arrival so, accompanied now with Alistair too, we decided to try and walk into town. We had not got far when a local man offered a lift in his car, we gracefully accepted and promptly piled into his Clio sized car with huge bags on lap. After a short trip along, through and up the ridge that Shimla is located upon he dropped us at the central bus stand with directions on how to reach the town centre. We made the final ascent, laden with heavy bags, through a busy Tibetan market and upon reaching the top of the ridge were all stood agog, we had suddenly stepped into a classic British town from 1900. In the days of British occupation Shimla had served as a summer retreat for the Raj and as a consequence the architecture was bizarrely out of place for an Indian town. After our initial shock had subsided we quickly found a place to stay, an old YMCA, and set out in a hurry to find the toy train station to book tickets for the next day as we had been told we needed to get there before 6. after walking a long way down the ridge we eventually found the station only to find that the ticket booth had closed 15 minutes before at five, balls. We made our way up to the town centre to find some food and after a long search for somewhere good we found a cheap chai house where we had a really good (and cheap) dinner before heading back to the hostel for a read and another early night.
The next morning we had an earlyish breakfasts at the hostel before rushing down to get to the station in order to try and get tickets for the earliest train possible to Kalka, as we had organised to meet Dave in Jaipur the next day. Luckily this turned out to be simple and unbelievably cheap and soon we were sat with a cabin to ourselves trundling at a leisurely pace through the foothills of the Himalayas in a half sized train. For the first hour or two most of the views were obscured by the clouds that descend on the valleys in the nights, however as the sun slowly drew the clouds up with invisible strings the astounding views that we had been told of were clear to see. The distance the train covered around one hundred kilometres but took around six hours as there were extended stops at stations in order to let other trains past. The time was well spent catching up on my blog, reading and gazing out the window watching the green landscape slip past only to be replaced with fresh scenery as the train passed though countless long tunnels bored through the hills. As the terrain slowly flattened out we arrived at Kalka where we braved the throng molesting the ticket booth in order to book travel to Delhi. It took a while but we emerged from the ordeal with tickets, we had a cup of tea and found our seats on the train to await departure. As far as a first encounter with India's train system is concerned we were eased in gently with seats on an air conditioned express service that took only four hours. Our tickets included complementary food the highlights of which were; half a coleslaw sandwich and what can only be described as sweet almond fibre glass. The trip passed by comfortably as our seats had a power point and I had a large library of TV on my laptop to complement it. Once we arrived in Delhi we found a place to stay with the addition of a girl called Alice who tagged along from the station. That night we met up with Dave and roy for a few drinks before turning in for the night...

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